last summer farm subscription box


Rear: tomatillos, arugula, and watermelons. Front: tomatoes, eggplants, sweet potatoes, and ‘Peachy Mama’ peppers.

Today I picked up the last box of our summer farm subscription (one of the food sources described in an article co-written by our neighborhood drop-off coordinator). This week’s box was one of the most bountiful of the summer, and more representative of what our winter boxes were like. With the drought that hit Maryland earlier this summer, the summer subscription didn’t match our experience in the winter. Even with the intellectual knowledge that low returns were due to crop failure, and the consolation that everyone we knew with a CSA was experiencing the same thing, it was a bit disappointing. We were quite glad that we’d experienced the winter subscription first, as we likely wouldn’t continue after this year’s admittedly unusual experience. However, we did experience the winter subscription first, and having done so we’ll likely give next year’s summer subscription another try to see what a non-fluke-low-year is like.

For now — and by ‘now’ I mean the six weeks until our winter subscription picks up — we’ll rely on the farmers’ markets to supply us with our fresh food (once we eat all that stuff from our box, that is). Because we don’t have a car, we aren’t able to get to the market where our farmer brings his produce, but there are several other small and local farmers to support at the markets we can get to by foot or bike or train (or some combination thereof).

With the apples in season, I’ll be making sure not to miss my weekly trip, even if we do have eggplants, watermelons and sweet potatoes coming out our wazoos. I won’t be making as many pies this year, with our cholesterol-busting plan in full swing, but I can’t wait to get my annual fix of crispy tart Braeburns. I’ve sworn off grocery store apples this year, for reasons of cost and perpetually disappointing taste, so these will be the first we’ve had in a long time. With a little luck, I won’t have to go all the way in to the Dupont Circle market downtown to find apples that are minimally sprayed.

Maybe it’s a function of growing up in food farming regions, but I didn’t realize until recently that my approach to eating had become something of a ‘movement’ and that there was a cute phrase attached to the idea that it’s always best, economically as well as gastronomically, to buy your food directly from the person who grows it. Or, at an even more basic level, that food is grown not manufactured, and the quicker it gets to you, the fresher it is. Food coops, local organic stores, and farmers’ markets have been the mainstays of my food supply for over 10 years now, since my post-college days of belonging to the coop around the corner from my house in West Philly. It’s still a little odd to find myself part of a way of living that now has regular publications and gets national press.

But, you know, really: as long as I can eat what I like and walk to get it, I’m happy.

last summer farm subscription box

baked salmon with red onion confit

Last night’s dinner, baked salmon with a red onion confit, was a test run of a recipe I’m considering cooking for friends at some point next month (shh, don’t tell!). It comes from an old copy of The Mediterranean Kitchen, by Joyce Goldstein, that I bought earlier this year at the used bookshop. The only other recipe I’ve tried in it was baked cod with onions and mint, which was quite good once we adjusted to the flavor of mint in an entrée.

The more elaborate version of this recipe involves poaching the salmon fillets in a fish fumet to which you’ve added the red onion confit and some more wine. I decided to just go with the baked version in order to have a reasonable chance of successfully executing the meal. I also halved it, as we were only cooking a pound of salmon rather than slightly-over-two-pounds used in the book.

First, I sliced three red onions and sautéed them 1/4 cup of safflower oil, until tender but still slightly al dente, about 15 minutes. The recipe called for 1/4 cup of butter melted in the pan, but, well, yeah. It also called for a deep sauté pan, which would have worked better but we only have the shallow skillet:

Onions cooking in oil.

The recipe calls for a cup of a full-bodied wine like a Zinfandel. I used a California one (which seemed milder than we expected when it was done):

The wine.

After the onions are cooked but not yet totally soft, add the cup of wine and cook at medium high heat for about another 10 minutes. I probably could have cooked the onions down into a thicker confit than I did, with maybe another 10 minutes beyond what was recommended. At the very end of the cooking time, add a tablespoon of sugar (or more if you prefer) and salt and pepper to taste:

Onions cooking in wine.

While the onions were cooking down in the wine, I turned on the oven to 450F and started steaming the potatoes in the back burner (a process which usually takes about 15-20 minutes for the small potatoes that I get from the farmers):

The stove mid-action.

The salmon I rinsed and put into an oiled dish (I oil the dish by pouring a bit of olive oil into the middle and flipping the fish around in it until it and the dish are lightly coated):

The unlucky fish of the day.

Once the confit is ready and the oven is hot, I poured the confit over the fish and baked for about 18 minutes (this was probably a minute or two longer than necessary, but the 7 minutes recommended by the recipe were definitely not enough unless you like your salmon cooked like rare beef):

The fish and onions on the way into the oven.

The final product on the table, darkened up nicely:

Dinner.

The meal was tasty, but a little bland; a stronger wine and a bit more salt and pepper might address that in the future. There was also a bit much liquid for a dish to be served to guests; cooking the confit down to a thicker consistency would likely made this a non-issue. Rice or couscous rather than potatoes would probably provide a better accompaniment (what can I say, I bought a lot of potatoes last week). And again, we’ll be having the leftovers tonight.

baked salmon with red onion confit

baked stuffed butternut squash


Dinner, day two.

Last week I made stuffed squash for the first time. It’s not the kind of thing that I ate much of growing up, nor is it the sort of thing I would order in a restaurant. But it appeared to be one of the few ways to actually eat a squash as a meal, so I thought I’d give it a try.

We’d received two butternut squash as part of our summer farm subscription, and I’d let them cure on the sideboard the recommended 10 days or so. I lacked a meatless recipe for stuffed squash in my own cookbooks, so I based my efforts on a recipe from a woman who is also adapting her cooking to lower cholesterol. And, the photo looked tasty.

For my version, I sautéed about half a head of garlic, three onions, three ancho peppers from our farm subscription, and three little yellow-green apples I had kicking around in the crisper. Spice-wise, I used a bit of dried sage, dried thyme, and salt and pepper. When that had cooked down to a nice thick goop, I mixed in a few slices of stale rosemary potato bread from the farmers’ market, chopped into cubes, and one egg’s worth of EggBeaters. To prepare the squash (which I’d already coated in olive oil and baked at 350F for about 40 minutes), I scooped out a bit of the middle to create a longer cavity. I then heaped the filling in, using it all on the two halves as the squash was large, and baked it for about another 40 minutes.

The result was, I have to say, underwhelming. It looked decent, and it was cooked all the way through, but it never really browned up, making us think we probably could have cooked it longer and/or at higher heat. The flavor was also very bland; it could have used fresh herbs, including rosemary, in much greater quantities. Finally, both of us had a mental challenge with regard to our expectations. I imagined only the savory Christmas stuffing of my youth, to which this stuffing definitely did not compare favorably despite its highbrow ingredients. My partner had a similarly difficult time getting over the conception of squash as a side dish, and kept looking around on his plate for the meat. Expecting that the squash would be quite filling, I had only prepared potatoes on the side; a green salad probably would have rounded out the meal more. Of course, when you’re eating vegetables stuffed with vegetables and a side of vegetables, a few more here and there probably don’t notably change your experience.

If we decide to try this again with our other squash, I’ll try a few different things. One, I’ll cook down the filling so that it has less water. Two, I’ll cook it at higher heat. Lastly and most importantly, I’ll add a whole bunch more savory stuff.

baked stuffed butternut squash

Bhindi Masala

As part of my ongoing effort to learn how to cook and eat all the vegetables, I bought okra at the farmers’ market on Saturday, from one of the old guys who remind me of my grandfather. I had an okra dish that I liked the last time our friends brought over Indian food, so my plan was to reproduce that dish. Nosing around on the interwebs, I found a recipe for Bhindi Masala that I decided to try. Since Channa Masala is my favorite Indian dish, I knew I’d like the spices. And, I had all the ingredients, which is always a bonus.

First, I washed and trimmed 1 pound of okra (one of the two bags I’d purchased):

Okra in a bag.

Next I cut the pods in half, resulting in segments that were generally about 1 inch long, and set them to the side:

Okra in a bowl.

Having been forewarned about the sliming aspect of cutting into okra, I then washed the cutting board and knife before next thinly slicing two onions:

Two onions, one whole, one sliced.

Meanwhile, I warmed up the pan for two minutes, then added 1/4 cup of safflower oil, and heated that for another two minutes:

Pot.

This next step would have benefited from some garlic. In the future, I’ll mince two or three cloves and put them in with the onions and oil. This time, I cooked the onions over medium heat until they were translucent:

Onions and oil.

While the onions were cooking, I chopped the tomatoes. The recipe calls for two tomatoes; I used about a cup of cherry tomatoes and five small ones, all from our farm subscription:

Chopped tomatoes.

Once the onions were translucent, I added 1 teaspoon of paprika, 1/2 teaspoon of turmeric, and some salt and pepper. Unbeknown to me, my salt shaker was pretty much empty, so in the end it could have used more salt here. The flavor was also quite mild, so next time I think I’ll add 1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds and 1/2 teaspoon coriander, as with the Channa Masala. I cooked the onions and spices at higher heat until coated, about 2 minutes:

Onions with spices.

I then added the tomatoes, and cooked at high heat for about 1 minute (referred to in the recipe as ‘bhoona,’ the process of cooking off the liquid so that the spices coat the ingredients like a paste):

Onions, spices, and tomatoes.

Next, I added the okra and cooked at high heat (stirring constantly to prevent sticking) for about 2 minutes:

Onions, spices, tomatoes, and okra.

Finally, I added 1/2 cup water and 1 teaspoon garam masala, stirred it all around, lowered the heat, and covered the pot to steam for 15 minutes:
Everything steaming.

The dish warmed on the stove for about 1/2 hour following the steaming, and we then ate it over brown rice:
Dinner.

My general assessment of this recipe was that it wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t as flavorful as I’d like. In the future I’ll just modify the spices in the direction of the Channa Masala recipe I use, and I think it’ll be fine. If I’d had more onions (oops) I’d have just doubled it and used all the okra, since it only made enough for three servings (guess what I’ll be having for lunch). Since I didn’t, I’ll use the other bag to make a Madhur Jaffrey recipe, possibly ‘Sweet and Sour Okra with Chickpeas’ (if I can scrounge up curry leaves and tamarind paste).

Bhindi Masala

Icemakers of the Revolution

‘When the puppets cut their strings / there’ll be fireworks for the world to see / when the puppets cut their strings / there’ll be hell to pay in the ghettos of the whole damn world.’ — Icemakers of the Revolution


Diane, Tammy, and Shawny, at a show outside the Union in 1991.

I’ve referenced the Icemakers of the Revolution in passing, but they really deserve their own press. Fuzzy and Stephen were kind enough to collaborate and make available two of their albums in digital format, the first of which contains the aforementioned ‘Upset With The Set-Up.’ It also includes another of my favorites, ‘Panama,’ and the ever-popular (and still timely) ‘Growthrough,’ a protest against the Gulf War (I).

It would be fair to say that the Icemakers were one of my favorite bands. They were a local band when I was in high school, made up of Purdue students of various stripes — undergrad, grad, and alumni. Their sound varied from full on rockin’ out to an a cappella style. I saw them in just about every venue in town that didn’t require you to be 21 (or even 18): inside the Union, outside the Union, behind Von’s, in the Armory, and innumerable times upstairs at the Wesley Foundation. Despite carrying my camera with me nearly everywhere at that time, I only have half a roll of film of them, some 10 photos in all.

The members of the Icemakers were something like angry folk rock gods to those of us who were then 5 or 10 years younger (a span that is meaningless in my adult life). They were smart, funny, biting, and they trusted us to watch their cat when they went out of town. They were also unequivocally anti-war, pro-vegetarian, anti-racist and feminist, the political fathers and mothers of the kids who warm the cockles of my heart when I see them at protests with ‘no war but the class war!’ banners. In our small town, where the most successful college programs depended on big industry and government funding, they were a sign to me and my friends that we didn’t have to grow up and buckle under, that we could be only just beginning.

Being able to continue to see Icemakers shows was one of the few things I envied the people I left behind when I went away to college. I took their cassettes with me, but it wasn’t the same as their live shows. Since then I’ve grown away from folk as a genre, but I still pull the cassettes out from under the bench in the living room every once in a while, dust them off, and rock out.

Icemakers of the Revolution